FINISHING OPTIONS
The wood doors sold by TheDoorCompany.com are crafted with only the finest materials. You can choose from a wide variety of stain or paint possibilities. Your local paint and stain dealers should have a broad selection of color chips on hand to demonstrate the looks you can achieve when staining fine wood.

If you choose paint instead of stain, you can apply either oil-base or latex resin-base paints over an oil-base primer. However, take care in following the finishing instructions provided here. Also, be sure to evaluate the conditions your door must endure, such as direct exposure to severe climates, before deciding on the specific finish to use. The section below, entitled "High Exposure Finishing," contains important information for doors subject to adverse conditions.

HANDLING

1. Do not walk on any door units. Some units contain glass.
2. Avoid dragging doors across one another and keep doors clean.
3. Store flat on a level surface in a dry, well-ventilated building.
4. Doors should be conditioned to average prevailing relative humidity of the locality before hanging.
5. Doors should not be subjected to extreme or rapid changes in heat or humidity. Avoid sudden changes such as forced heat to dry out a building.
6. If the doors are to be stored on the job site, all six sides must be sealed with an effective quality oil-base sealer in order to prevent undue moisture absorption.

PREPARATION FOR FINISHING

1. Before applying the first coat of finish, sand the entire surface lightly with 5/0 sandpaper (180 grit). This is to remove fingerprints and handling marks.
2. Adjust or align components if necessary before finishing. Wood panels "float" and may be knocked into alignment with a wood block and hammer. Be careful not to damage door.
3. After sanding, clean door thoroughly with a tack cloth to remove all dust or foreign material. However, avoid using caustic or abrasive cleaners.
4. Hang door before finishing, then remove to finish properly.
5. All six sides of the door must be properly finished. The edges (top, bottom and sides) should be coated with each and every coat of finish that is applied to the exterior surface of the door. Doors must be dry before finishing.
6. On doors that are glazed with clear glass, some squeeze out of the glazing putty is normal and the finish used should be flowed from the wood slightly onto the glass. This will provide assurance against water leakage and protect the glazing "putty" from drying out.

EXTERIOR FINISHING

1. Stain-and-Clear Finish

The first coat should be a sanding sealer, a combination of stain and sealer, which colors the door and seals the surface. It is available in a wide range of colors. The stain-and-sealer should have an alkyd-resin base. Under no circumstances should a lacquer-based toner or any other lacquer-based finish be used on exterior doors.

The second and third coats (two topcoats minimum) may be a solvent-borne (oil-base, alkyd resin-base, polyurethane resin-base) or a water-borne (latex resin-base) clear finish. See notes (1) and (2) below.

The advantages and disadvantages of solvent-borne vs. water-borne clear finishes are as follows:

(1) Solvent-Borne Advantages: Faster drying, harder and more water resistant. May be applied under variable weather conditions. Disadvantages: Subject to ultra-violet degradation and not as flexible or durable as water-borne clear finish.

(2) Water-Borne Advantages: Very flexible, greater ultra-violet resistance, and good exterior durability. Disadvantages: Cannot be applied below 50º F, long drying period required, and may not fully cure for several weeks. Water-sensitive until cure is complete. Note: Do not sand between coats of clear latex.

All stain-and-clear finishes will perform measurably better if protected from the direct effects of sunlight and weathering, and refinishing will not be required as frequently.

2. Paint Finish

Either oil-base or latex resin-base exterior grade paints may be used with success on woos doors. Oil-base paints offer more resistance to the passage of water (liquid and vapor) than latex resin-base paints, but the latter have better durability and color retention.

Doors should be sealed with a good quality oil-base primer followed by at least two top coats of either an oil-base or latex resin-base paint. Of course, both primer and top coat should be made by the same manufacturer and be designed to be used as a combination.

3. Caution

We cannot evaluate all the available paints and stains, nor the customers' specific application requirements. Your paint dealer should know of suitable finish systems that give satisfactory results in your region. It is highly recommended that top quality finishes be selected, and the application instructions on the container be followed explicitly.

INTERIOR FINISHING

1. Stain-and-Clear Finish

A solvent-borne finish system is recommended for interior doors and may be a lacquer-based system. It is recommended that a pre-sealer be used prior to staining. For best performance, a minimum of two clear topcoats should be used over stains.

2. Paint Finish

Doors should be sealed with a good quality oil-base primer followed by two topcoats of a solvent-base or latex enamel.

MAINTENANCE

The wood doors sold by TheDoorCompany.com have been handcrafted with quality and performance in mind. But, like any fine piece of furniture, its finish will require some simple, periodic maintenance to keep it looking great and provide proper protection against the elements. Regular finish maintenance is also a requirement of the warranty that's included with every door.

Here are some signs to watch for. They indicate that it's time for some simple, easy-to-perform maintenance:

• Hairline cracks in the top coat of finish.
• Changes in the color of the finish.
• Changes in the texture of the finish, such as flaking or scaling.
• Dullness, chalkiness or flaking in the finish.

If you live in a severe climate or your entry receives a lot of direct sunlight, you'll want to examine your door's finish often. Depending on the conditions, you may also need to maintain the door finish more frequently. The section below, entitled "High Exposure Finishing," contains important information for doors subject to adverse conditions.

It is important to note that while hardwoods are some of the most durable wood species, they still have the inherent dynamic qualities of wood. Over time, small surface "imperfections" may appear, and the door may shrink or swell slightly as it "breathes" with climate changes. These characteristics are perfectly normal, reflecting the natural aging process of a wood door, and they should not be considered defects. To minimize these occurrences, protect your door with the right finish, adequate overhangs and preventative maintenance.

HIGH EXPOSURE FINISHING

1. Use an oil-based primer followed by at least three topcoats of oil or latex-based paint on the exterior. Latex is more durable and has better color retention.
2. Use a silicone or caulking bead (must be compatible with paint) around the perimeter of each glass pane. This will seal the putty and prevent any moisture from running directly into the door.
3. Ensure all finish coats are allowed to flow into the glass area at least 1/16".
4. Ensure all coatings that go on the surface of the door are also applied to the top and bottom. Coat all six sides of every door, or your warranty will be voided.
5. Silicone the door bottom sweep onto the bottom of the door and apply a surface mount drip cap to the bottom of each door to allow for moisture runoff onto the sill.
6. For outswing units: Prior to finishing the top of the inactive door, be sure to fill the mortise pocket around the flush bolt prep with silicone or caulking. Moisture has a history of pooling up in this area on outswing units. All exterior door must be flashed with a thin layer of metal across the top of the door to keep moisture from having direct contact with the wood.
7. Storm or screen doors may be mandatory to completely eliminate moisture problems. Storm doors must be vented to eliminate temperature build-up.

Paint Finish Specifics

1. "Bridge" finish from face of door to moulding, ensuring there is no gap between moulding and surface of the door.
2. "Bridge" finish as noted above on inside of panel area where moulding meets panel and/or glass.
3. Ensure all moulding miters are well coated, leaving no gaps.

Jamb-to-Sill Specifics

1. Caulk at sill-to-jamb leg connection.
2. Use corner pads where sill meets jamb.
3. Flood flush bolt hole in sill with caulk or silicone.

Copyright © 2000 TheDoorCompany.com. All Rights Reserved.
Use of this website constitutes acceptance of TheDoorCompany.com
User Agreement and Privacy & Security policies.