SAFETY NOTE:
If you have not installed a door previously, we recommend you use a professional
installer. TheDoorCompany.com is not responsible for damage, error or
injury resulting from installation. Installation may require two people.
Construction methods vary in different parts of the country, check with
your local building authority regarding any specific recommendations
for your area. Use power tools only according to manufacturer's directions.
Wear protective equipment and clothing as appropriate. Never operate
power tools around small children.
GENERAL INFORMATION FOR FITTING AND HANGING WOOD DOORS
- When
hanging door, allow adequate clearance for swelling of door or frame
in damp weather. Allow approximately 3/16" clearance for swelling when
the door is installed in fully dry conditions (it is normal to expect
some movement). Jambs must be plumb.
- Do not
cut panel doors down in height by more than 2" (1-1/2" maximum from
bottom, 1/2" maximum from top). Care should be taken in cutting panel
doors down in width to avoid exposing engineered components. Use sharp
fine-tooth saw for trimming ends of doors.
- Caution
must be used to avoid impairing the strength of the door when fitting
for locks. Allow at least 1" of wood back of mortise.
- Use three
hinges on doors up to 7' in height and four hinges on doors over 7'.
Hinges must be set in a straight line to prevent distortion.
- Jambs
and stops must be set square and plumb.
- For best
performance, any exterior door should be installed under an overhang
or with protection. If an overhang is not feasible, finishing the door
in a light color will prevent excess heat build-up in the door. Flash
and caulk under sill and behind brick mould.
- Immediately
after cutting and fitting (before hanging), seal all cut surfaces and
ends of door with an effective quality sealer. See Care & Finishing
recommendations for complete instructions.
- Prior
to exterior exposure, doors should be finished with complete finish
system.
- To minimize
heat loss and save energy, use a quality weather strip around the door
edges to create an airtight seal. Test for air leaks with the door closed
and make corrections until all leaks are sealed.
|
| |
PREHUNG ENTRY DOOR INSTALLATION
Homeowners
and builders alike often prefer to work with prehung (ready to install)
doors. They come pre-milled, hinged and framed. Many styles of entry door
units also include a threshold that saves additional time and effort.
Before You Start
Make sure you have the necessary tools and materials including:
a.
Tools: caulk gun, circular saw, dust mask, goggles, hammer, hand saw,
level, mini-hacksaw or saws-all, nail set, pencil, utility knife.
b.
Materials: building paper, drip edge, minimally expanding foam,
finishing nails, 10d galvanized nails, 2 ½" plated flat head screws,
silicone or butyl rubber caulk, wood shims.
Preparing
The Opening
- After
removing the old door from its hinges, remove any remaining moulding
around the interior of existing door and the old doorframe with a mini-hacksaw
or saws-all.
- Inspect
the studs for water or insect damage. If the framing is damaged, consult
a contractor.
- The rough
opening should be at least 1" wider and ½" higher than the outside dimensions
of the new door frame unit.
Installing The Door Unit
- Prehung
doors come in a standard jamb width of 4-9/16" or 6-9/16" depending
on the thickness of your walls.
- Remove
any protective packing material from around new door unit. Do not remove
the restraining brackets that hold the door closed.
- Visually
center the new door unit, slide it into the rough opening bottom end
first and tilt it into place.
- Shim the
lower side jamb as needed to make sure the frame is level and plumb.
- If the
exterior siding needs to be cut to accommodate the brick moulding, trace
the outline of the brick moulding onto the exterior siding.
- If required,
using a circular saw, cut through just the siding as marked.Trim siding at the corners of the opening with a sharp chisel.
- Cover
the exposed rough framing stud with an 8" wide strip of building paper
sliding it between the exterior siding and sheathing on the side and
top of the opening.
- If the
door is exposed to direct precipitation, a strip of drip edge cut to
the width of the opening can be inserted -- not nailed -- between the
siding and the building paper at the top of the opening.
- Apply
generous multiple beads of silicone or butyl rubber caulk to the subfloor
and to the building paper at front edges of the jack studs and header
plate.
- Slide
the door unit into place again and visually center it.
- Press
the brick moulding firmly against the exterior siding until the frame
is temporarily secured with two finishing nails.
- From the
inside, insert pairs of shims in the gap between the door jambs and
the studs where the lockset and hinges are located.
-
Insert additional paired shims every 12" inches along the side and header jambs.
Do not force shims into place since they may cause the frame to bow.
Use level to make sure door is plumb as you go.
- Maintain
a 1/8" space between the door edge and the jamb on the lock side of
the door and 1/16" on the hinge side.
- From the
outside, nail the door in place with finishing nails driven part way
through the side and head jambs at each pair of shims and into the studs.
Check the space between the door edge and jamb to maintain
the margin. Remove restraining brackets and make sure door operates
freely. Then use a nail set to drive all the nail heads just below the
surface of the wood.
- Remove
two of the screws on the top hinge and replace them with longer anchor
screws to securely attach the door to the wall studs.
- On the
outside, drive 10d galvanized nails every 16" through the brick moulding
into the framing members to secure it. Sink the nails just below the
surface of the wood using a nail set.
- Caulk
the exterior seam between the frame and exterior wall using silicone,
foam or butyl rubber caulk.
- For a
painted finish, fill nail holes with wood putty, allow to dry, then
paint. For a stained finish, stain the wood and fill the holes with
a matching color stick. Repeat as necessary.
- Adjust
the threshold to create a secure seal.
Completing
The Installation
- With
a utility knife or handsaw, cut the excess shims just inside the frame.
- Fill the
gap between the jamb and studs with a small bead of expanding insulating
foam. Make sure not to over do it since the foam may continue to expand
and could bow the frame.
- Position
the interior trim assembly in place without nailing it. Measure and
mark it to match the depth of the floor coverings. Cut as necessary
and install with finishing nails. Fill nail holes (as above).
- Paint
or stain the door and trim as desired. Be sure to follow the paint or
stain manufacturer's directions explicitly.
- Install
the lockset according to the lockset manufacturer's directions.
Installing
Doors With Sidelights
Installing
a door with sidelights is basically the same as a regular door unit. The
only difference is that you should drive the finishing nails into the
jambs of the sidelight instead of the door jambs.
Installing
Exterior Double Doors
Installing
a double door is nearly the same as a regular door unit. However, before
securing the unit with nails, check to make sure both doors fit flush
and there's an even gap of 1/8" between both doors and the astragal (the
vertical piece which separates the doors). Drive screws into the top and
middle hinges of the most active door.
|
| |
PREHUNG INTERIOR DOOR INSTALLATION
Although
prehung door units cost a little more, homeowners and builders alike often find the convenience
and finished product well worth the difference in price. Prehung interior doors
come pre-milled, hinged and framed. They
are installed after the framing and sheetrocking. If the rough opening
is square and plumb, the job is much easier.
BEFORE
YOU START
Make sure
you have the necessary tools and materials including:
a. Tools:
goggles, hammer, hand saw, 3-4' level, nail set, pencil, utility knife.
b. Materials:
4d finishing nails, 8d finishing nails, wood shims.
Preparing
The Opening
- After
removing the old door from its hinges, remove any remaining moulding
around the existing door and the old doorframe.
- Inspect
the studs for water or insect damage. If the framing is damaged, consult
a contractor.
- The rough
opening should be at least 1" wider and ½" higher than the outside dimensions
of the new door frame unit.
Installing
The Door Unit
- Prehung
doors come in a standard jamb width of 4-9/16" or 6-9/16" depending
on thickness of your walls.
- Remove
any protective packing material from around new door unity. Do not remove
the restraining brackets that hold the door closed.
- 3Slide
the new door unit into the rough opening bottom end first and tilt it
into place. Position the door unit in the rough opening so the edges
of the jambs are flush with the wallboard.
- Visually
center the top jamb in the opening and making sure the hinge side jamb
is plumb.
- Level
the top jamb and tack it in place using two 4d finishing nails driven
partway through the frame and into the header.
- Check
the base of the frame to make sure it will fit with the finish flooring.
If the finish floor has been installed, the jamb should fit snugly but
not so tight that it bows the frame. If the finish floor has not been
installed, measure and mark each side of the frame from the subfloor
1/2" (depending upon the thickness of the carpet and pad, tile or wood
floor) and 3/16" for vinyl floor covering. NOTE: If the thickness of
floor coverings in the adjoining rooms is different, mark and cut each
side of the jambs accordingly to accommodate the materials (i.e. vinyl
in one room and tile in the adjoining room).
- Carefully
pull the two nails without marring the jamb and remove the door unit.
Cut and sand the jambs as marked. REMEMBER: "Measure twice, cut once."
- Reposition
and center the door unit in the opening. Level the top jamb and tack
it in place as before.
- Holding
a level along the hinge jamb, drive pairs of wood shims from opposite
directions into the space between the jamb and the stud at each hinge
point.
- Drive
a 8d finishing nail through the jamb, shims and partway into the stud
at each hinge point. Do not drive the nails home yet. Check for plumb
and adjust as necessary.
- Close
door and drive an additional pair of shims in the space between the
jamb and the stud at the lockset and then near the top and bottom of
the jamb. Check the jamb for plumb.
- Open and
close the door to make sure it operates freely. Check to make sure it
fits evenly at the top and sides with a 1/8" margin. The door should
not swing open or closed on its own. Remove and adjust shims as necessary.
- After
ensuring that the frame is level and plumb, drive pairs of shims along
the side and top jambs so they are spaced every 12". Make sure not to
bow the jambs.
- Drive
an 8d finishing nail through the jamb and each pair of shims into the
stud. Use a nail set to drive all the nail heads just below the surface
of the wood.
Completing
The Installation
- With
a handsaw or utility knife, cut the shims just below the wall surface.
- Position
the trim assembly without nailing it. Carefully measure and mark it
to match the depth of the floor coverings as with the doorframe.
- Remove,
cut and smooth the end cut with sandpaper. Reposition trim and tack
in place with 4d finishing nails. Align the trim and nail in place every
16 inches with 4d finishing nails using a nail set to drive nails just
below the surface of the wood.
- Paint
or stain the door and trim as desired. Be sure to follow the paint or
stain manufacturer's directions explicitly.
- Install
the lockset according to the lockset manufacturer's directions.
Installing
Interior Double Doors
Installing
a double door is nearly the same as a regular door unit. However, before
securing the unit with nails, check to make sure both doors fit flush
and there's an even gap of 1/8" between both doors and the astragal (the
vertical piece which separates the doors). Drive screws into the top and
middle hinges of the most active door.
|
